A few weeks ago we snuck out to the Tararua Range for an overnight trip. I was quickly reminded when backpacking in NZ 1. Bridges are (mostly) a myth 2. The trails go two ways: Straight up or straight down and 3. Moss is everywhere from ground to treetop.

I credit New Zealand for hooking me on backpacking. I grew up backpacking adjacent. Camping, hiking, canoeing, and a few short one-night trips. That all changed when I lived here a decade ago. I quickly fell in love with getting further and further from the car.

We started at the Kiwi Ranch Rd Trailhead, only 45 minutes from downtown Wellington. The Tararua Ranges form a massive forest park with backcountry huts dotting the valleys and ridges. NZ’s backcountry hut program is impressive, featuring over 950 huts. The cost ranges from free to $15/night.

Our destination was the Tutuwai Hut. We made our way up and over Puffer saddle, descended to Smith’s Creek, and then along the Tauherenikau River. The track was smooth in parts, washed out in others, but we made it to the hut before dark. With decently dry shoes too!

The next day we started with a river crossing and then 2,700 feet up to the summit of Omega. The trail, like many in New Zealand, is impossibly steep. In true kiwi style, there are no switchbacks either. Just gut it out to the top.

From here, it was a long downhill along the Marchant Ridge. At first, the track was densely covered by trees. Toward the end of the ridge, views opened up back towards Wellington. Although we hiked most of the day, we didn't get back to the car after dark. The climb and the trail condition reminded me to adjust my pace expectations when hiking in New Zealand.

Even though it was only a one-night trip, it felt so good to be back in my backpacking birthplace. And my calves ached for two days after.

If you go: