Speakers Cabin Porcupine Mountains

If you want a minimal effort, maximum backwoods fun trip Speaker’s Cabin has you covered.

It’s just under a mile walk to your own private cabin on Lake Superior. You can’t really go wrong with any cabin in the Porkies, but Speakers Cabin, IMO, has the best view, the easiest walk-in, and privacy.

The last time I was here was 6 years ago. For the most part, it’s the same setup. There was a flood of Speaker’s Creek in 2016 which caused erosion along the creek edge. After this, the cabin was moved back 20 feet from the creek to avoid future floods. The great news, the zombie flies I mentioned before have abated significantly. 

This weekend we are here with 2 other friends putting us at the 4 person limit. Speakers is a nice size for 4. Space to cook, a woodstove for heat, a big table, and 4 bunks. Wood for the fire is gathered from around the cabin. Thankfully the last group left us a decent amount of dry wood and we returned the favor for the next group.

Although I've yet to use it, my favorite part is the fire ring overlooking Lake Superior. On a cool night, it would be epic to watch the stars or northern lights around the fire. In the summer, the creek and lake would be great for swimming.

The downside of Speakers is that it’s a bit cut off from the main trail system. It’s possible to hike anywhere in the park from the North Country Trail, the trail running by the cabin, but getting to the heart of the park is a long journey.

On the flip side, Speaker’s Cabin is the closest cabin to the Presque Isle side of the park. Personally, I highly recommend the hike from the cabin to the Presque Isle River and the waterfalls through the Hemlock forest. The trail from the cabin to the falls is lightly traveled through the moody forest. At approximately 5 miles round trip, it's a nice length to pack a picnic and lounge around the falls area.

Tararua Range Overnight Trip

A few weeks ago we snuck out to the Tararua Range for an overnight trip. I was quickly reminded when backpacking in NZ 1. Bridges are (mostly) a myth 2. The trails go two ways: Straight up or straight down and 3. Moss is everywhere from ground to treetop.

I credit New Zealand for hooking me on backpacking. I grew up backpacking adjacent. Camping, hiking, canoeing, and a few short one-night trips. That all changed when I lived here a decade ago. I quickly fell in love with getting further and further from the car.

We started at the Kiwi Ranch Rd Trailhead, only 45 minutes from downtown Wellington. The Tararua Ranges form a massive forest park with backcountry huts dotting the valleys and ridges. NZ’s backcountry hut program is impressive, featuring over 950 huts. The cost ranges from free to $15/night. 

Our destination was the Tutuwai Hut. We made our way up and over Puffer saddle, descended to Smith’s Creek, and then along the Tauherenikau River. The track was smooth in parts, washed out in others, but we made it to the hut before dark. With decently dry shoes too!

The next day we started with a river crossing and then 2,700 feet up to the summit of Omega. The trail, like many in New Zealand, is impossibly steep. In true kiwi style, there are no switchbacks either. Just gut it out to the top.

From here, it was a long downhill along the Marchant Ridge. At first, the track was densely covered by trees. Toward the end of the ridge, views opened up back towards Wellington. Although we hiked most of the day, we didn't get back to the car after dark. The climb and the trail condition reminded me to adjust my pace expectations when hiking in New Zealand.

Even though it was only a one-night trip, it felt so good to be back in my backpacking birthplace. And my calves ached for two days after.

If you go: